Category Archives: Japan

Japan: Kyoto

Final batch of pictures from our Japan trip, these from Kyoto, the cultural capital of Japan.

On our first day, we went off to Kiyomizu-dera, a temple first built in the late eighth century but whose present buildings date from the seventeenth. On the way, we encountered a hillside full of bedecked Buddhas.


Before the actual temple precincts, we went into the Tainai-meguri, by which one symbolically enters a boddhisatva’s womb. What this means in reality is that you put your shoes in a plastic bag, then descend a stone staircase into a narrow, low-ceilinged passageway that is completely black. There’s a worn-smooth railing on the left, which you are instructed to hold at all times, as it’s the only way to figure out which way you’re going. And since the passage makes several 90-degree turns, if you let go of the railing you will almost certainly walk face-first into a stone wall.

I didn’t get a photo of the entrance, but someone else did.

The staircase down is in the center. Photo by Elliott Kallen.

It was a bit unnerving, but also genuinely womb-like (I guess). It feels like you are really, really deep underground, but of course you’re not. After a minute or two, you emerge into a small chamber with a dim light shining on a prayer wheel, which you can spin before heading up the stairs back into the light. Pretty awesome!

And here’s the temple itself, along with the requisite cherry blossoms. The day was rather overcast and so the colors got washed out a bit, but even still it’s all stunning.




There was evidently some kind of ceremony going on while we were there.


I’m not sure what they’re looking at, but it seems pretty compelling.

There were lots of Japanese there taking advantage of the various fortune-telling options and good-luck rituals.


We then walked down a couple of charming old streets (Sannen-zaka and Ninen-zaka) crowded with old wooden houses, shops, and people. We also encountered a trio of maiko (apprentice geishas). Cate thinks they were there for the tourists, but I insist, based on wishing-makes-it-so, that they were authentic. (I’m just saying, they weren’t selling anything, or even posing for pictures with anyone, apart from one imperious guy who clearly embarrassed the hell out of them [N.B.: I wasn’t that guy].)



And now a brief interlude of atmospheric images.


Noren are traditional Japanese fabric dividers. They hang in most doorways, especially restaurants (even in, say, the train stations) and traditional shops.


Tea break. Shibumi.


A stroll in the park.

And some photos of the cherry blossoms.


The post-work drinking-and-carousing beneath the cherry blossoms is a bit more fancy in Kyoto: more tables than tarps.


Cherry trees in Shimbashi, which, according to Lonely Planet, is “arguably, the most beautiful street in all of Asia, especially in the evening and during cherry-blossom season.”

Nishiki Market was an unexpectedly cool place: lots of food, crafts, and other fun stuff all under this awesome Lite-Brite roof.


That’s sunlight streaming in, not artificial light. Festive.


I’m sorry to say, I did not try one. It might as well have said ‘sushi waffles.’


Walking into a rice store in Japan is like walking into a wine store. Unless you know quite a bit about the product, you just look for something with a nice label.


Okay, now a brief foray into food.


Breaded, fried pork cutlet at a restaurant that serves only breaded, fried pork cutlets. Spoiler alert: it was delicious.


From now on, of course, we will only ever call potato salad “poteto sarada.”


The place setting at the tempura restaurant we went to, which seated no more than ten people.


The snack menu on the express train from Tokyo to Narita Airport. Starts out familiar, then takes a sharp turn into “Whhah?” with item number four.


There are so many reasons I won’t be shopping in this area.


In Japan, the vending machines offer wi-fi access.


Inside, surprisingly, everyone was quite calm.

I will close with another peaceful image, preceded by the warning we encountered nearby. I just love the “and so on” at the end. It’s like the ultimate legal disclaimer. “Look, we covered that clearly in the contract! See Section 1.4, which clearly states ‘in case and so on’.”


You know that awesome scene in Lost in Translation when ScarJo goes to Kyoto and witnesses a bunch of events and images that clearly illustrate for us, the viewers, just how alienating is the life she is temporarily leading in Japan while waiting for her ambitious-but-clueless photographer husband to stop flirting with vapid celebrities?

You know, where she walks from stone to stone at a temple? Here are the actual stones. Whoa.




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Japan: Hiroshima and Miyajima

Finally, some more photos from our Japan trip a month ago.

We took one day in Kyoto to do a day-trip to Hiroshima. It’s a bit of a ride, but a couple hours on the shinkansen (bullet train) is no big deal.


Hiroshima means pretty much one thing to most Americans, but it’s also a really cool city in its own right. They have an awesome public transportation system of trams that they call a “Working Museum.” Its fleet is composed of trains of all kinds manufactured in Europe and Asia during the past half century. So you’ll be on a relatively modern, 1980s train, chugging down the street, and see a ca. 1950 train waiting at the intersection. Continue reading

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Japan: The Movie

Here’s a little movie I made about our trip to Japan. Consider it a follow-up to the previous batches of photos (Tokyo, Mt. Fuji), and a preview for some yet-to-come (Kyoto, Hiroshima, Miyajima).

I recommend clicking on the word “Vimeo” in the video box, as that will open up a new page with a larger viewing window.

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Japan: Mt. Fuji (kind of)

After five nights in Tokyo, we spent one night in Kawaguchiko, which is near the base of Mt. Fuji. We hoped—maybe even expected—that we’d get a glimpse of that iconic view. So we grabbed our Japan Rail passes and hit the road. It took only a couple of hours on a couple of trains to get there. The second one—the local, if you will—was a private rail company that had the most fantastic trains.

Here’s the one we rode on the way there.


And on the way back:


Fujikyu Railway, at your service.

A nice looking rail car from the outside, to be sure. But check out the interior.


Those shelves on the left are an honest-to-god library (more useful to those who can read Japanese, but still). Those floors are real hardwood. Unbelievable! It was raining on the way back down the mountain, with very few people in the train, so it was like hanging out in a cozy study with a steadily changing view of the countryside. For example:



For much of the trip, there was a single track up the mountain. At a few points during the descent, we had to wait in the station for the train going in the opposite direction to pass us before we could continue. (And, being Japan, this meant that it was punctual to the minute.)

Kawaguchiko, when we finally arrived, was not exactly what we had expected. It was lovely, for sure. It reminded me of being on a lake in the White Mountains of New Hampshire.


The view from our room.


Recognize that tree? Hint: it’s the same tree as the one in the photo above. But at nighttime. So it’s dark. Hence the darkness.

But the weather was not, as you can see, terribly clear. And evidently it is more often cloudy than it is clear, which isn’t great for the casual visitor. It used to be that one could sometimes see Mt. Fuji all the way from Tokyo. Nowadays, you often can’t see Mt. Fuji from, well, the foot of Mt. Fuji.

We nonetheless checked out our hotel’s observatory to see what we could see.


And here’s what we saw.

Image from here.

Har har har! We didn’t see that! It’s hard to believe that photo is real!

Here is the best picture I actually got.


See that faint ascending slope on the right, disappearing into the clouds? Mt. Fuji! Beautiful!

As an aside: the staff of the Fujikyu Railway was very apologetic that we didn’t actually get to see Mt. Fuji, so they gave us some picture postcards with, well, the iconic picture-postcard image of the mountain. We also got some sweet candies with pictures of trains on them. End of aside.

The town itself was kind of kooky. It was clearly a bustling and super-popular retreat in, say, the mid-20th century. There are several nice, if dated, hotels that haven’t really been renovated since they were built. The town has a smattering of mediocre restaurants and a lot of kitschy shops selling souvenirs and the kind of stuff that kids want while on vacation. Soft-serve ice cream was easy to come by, for example. And some kid-friendly watercraft.


We soon found out that the only dinner options in town appeared to be very expensive multi-course menus offered by the big hotels, which we weren’t really in the mood for. We figured we’d walk back down to the stretch of road that had the mediocre-looking lunch restaurants and grab a quick dinner there. So off we went down the hotel driveway, went to turn at the appropriate point, and found the street in complete darkness. Not a single restaurant was open for dinner. Gulp.

This was especially hilarious because of an earlier almost-snafu that would have left us penniless. Japan, you see, is a very cash-oriented society. The number of places that take credit cards is far smaller than you might expect. So we would visit an ATM pretty frequently just to make sure we had money for basic survival needs.

When we got to Kawaguchiko, we needed some more cash, so we went to a Lawson’s Depot (a chain of convenience store that, like 7-11, originated in the United States but is now Japanese, and which can be found all over the country) to use their ATM. Hey! Funny! It accepts only Japanese-issued cards! And there’s no other ATM in town! And the hotel has no suggestions! I really thought that we would have to have a dinner of whatever we could find at Lawson’s with our remaining $10.

Except there was, thank god, another option: at a 7-11 way out by the train station, which we found on our own. Whew. (Pro tip: All of the 7-11 stores in Japan have a “Seven Bank” ATM that accepts international cards.)

Anyway, the pitch-black street of restaurants was a real kick in the teeth after our earlier Triumph Over Adversity. Fortunately, after much walking around in the cold and dark, we finally found the one place that was open. It had distinctive decor.


Hey, nice wagon wheel. And stuffed Pooh. And stuffed dolphin. And whatever psychedelic artworks are on the wall.

The whole resort  felt a little bit tired. Our room was perfectly fine, and fascinating in part because it was a Japanese/Western room: there was a Western-style bed, as well as a space where you could sleep Japanese style.


But it was also just a little old. And, coincidentally, it was the single most expensive place we stayed the entire time we were there. More expensive that Tokyo, more expensive that Kyoto. Go figure.

So we didn’t see Mt. Fuji, alas, but we had a rather nice and quirky and relaxing 18 hours in Kawaguchiko. It was a nice little palate cleanser between the Tokyo and Kyoto. The next installment of the Japan trip, coming soon: Kyoto.



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Japan: Tokyo

So we recently got back from Japan, which was stupendous. Here’s Bunch of Photos, Part 1.

We went when we did because I had some time off due to Easter and, of course, Ching Ming. It happened to coincide with the cherry blossoms, though, which made for an extra-awesome visit since we got to take part in some serious hanami (cherry-blossom viewing). We had a heck of a time finding hotel rooms, even though we booked months ago, but when all was said and done it wasn’t nearly as crowded as we had expected. So, first off, some images of the cherry blossoms in Tokyo.

Japan is, as we are not the first to observe, a very fastidious place. Every public transportation station has a bathroom, and it is immaculate. And yes, they really do have these awesomely fancy toilet seats. (Which aren’t cheap, by the way—they are upwards of $500.)


Our hotel room had one of the simpler models. Thank god.

Japan is also filled with vending machines. They are everywhere. The vast majority of them sell beverages (both hot and cold).


See, the drinks on the left (with the red stripe below them) are hot; the right-hand (blue) ones are cold. The Suntory Boss hot coffee in cans is surprisingly good.

It’s rare to encounter one that sells snacks (like candy bars), though on a subway platform we did encounter this one that sells fresh apple slices. Three different kinds of fresh apple slices, mind you. We tried them, and they were awesome.


And yeah, at some noodle shops you really do buy the ticket from a machine before approaching a server. This is very handy when, hypothetically, you need some time to figure out what the heck each dish is.


Here are some photos of Tokyo at its Tokyoist.

And a few others.


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